It’s that time of year again: the fash pack is strapping in for the biggest month in menswear. Yes, the schedule might look a tad sparse – what with Dsquared2, Gucci, and Fendi consolidating their men’s and women’s shows into February’s co-ed extravaganzas – but don’t for a second think there’s nothing to get excited about. Quite the opposite, in fact. A fresh lineup of globally resonant labels are gearing up to take centre stage, and we couldn’t be more thrilled. The AW25 season promises some intriguing city swaps, with certain brands making their Paris or Milan debut, leaving London and New York to ponder their next move. Kicking things off with the ever-dapper Pitti Uomo in Florence, followed by Milan’s slick sophistication and Paris’s powerhouse showcases, it’s shaping up to be a standout season. Here’s our top ten must-see moments.

Setchu Sets Its Sights On Pitti Uomo

Grab your Fendi Peekaboo bags boys, cause first things first, it’s off to Florence we go. From January 14 to 17, the 107th edition of Pitti Uomo – the city’s quintessential menswear tradeshow – will lump together some of the best bits in the menswear biz. This year’s edition will unfold the theme of ‘Fire’, and will platform over 786 brands via a range of physical booths, presentations and shows. Big hitters include Guess Jeans and Guess Men, Brunello Cucinelli, Baracuta, Ecco, Barbour and more.

As always, Pitti Uomo will also welcome a guest designer; this season, Japanese designer Setchu – who won the 2023 LVMH Prize – will bring his modular tailoring to Florence for AW25 with his very first runway show. Following in the formidable footsteps of designers like Magliano, Martine Rose, Raf Simons and, last season, Marine Serre, Setchu is expected to showcase a noteworthy offering of his particularly intelligent fusion of East and West. MM6 Maison Margiela will also put on a guest runway show at the Florentine fair, on Wednesday, January 15 at 6pm local time with the exact location yet to be revealed.

Saul Nash Lands in Milan

Heading north to Milan, Saul Nash will make his Milanese debut, leaving London in his wake and serving up a sporty menswear collection we can’t wait to see on Sunday, January 19 at 4pm local time. This follows the British designer’s show in London last year which was inspired by inner-city style in Paris, and his International Woolmark Prize and Queen Elizabeth II award for British Design wins back in 2022.

Armani’s Double Bill

Hitting two high fashion birds with one dapper stone, Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani are both set to showcase suited and booted menswear collections this season. The former will present Saturday, January 18 at 7pm Milan time while the latter is scheduled for Monday January 20, with two shows, each at 11 and 12pm.

Prada: Business as Usual

Prada, the Milanese mainstay, is set to show its sure-to-be-buzz-worthy AW25 collection on Sunday, January 19 at 2pm. Always one of the most talked-about runways of the season, we’re already gagging to see what’s in store.

Comme des Garçons: Menswear SS25

Zegna’s Penultimate Spot

Set to close out the week with a bang, Zegna is gearing up for a sleek AW25 showcase. The penultimate show will take place Monday, January 20 at 3pm.

Louis Vuitton Lights The Way

Nabbing Paris’s prestigious kick-off slot, Louis Vuitton is poised to start Paris Fashion Week Men’s with an electrifying show on Tuesday, January 21 at 6:30pm. Under the creative direction of Pharrell, it’s sure to be one of the buzziest shows of the season.

S.S. Daley’s Parisian Debut

Another city swap comes courtesy of LVMH Prize-winning designer Steven Stokey Daley, whose eponymous label will be showing in Paris for the first time in its five year history. Usually a London big hitter, this outing, taking place Wednesday, January 22 at 10am, will mark a major move for the folksy British label.

Dior Does It Again

As always, Dior’s menswear showcase is set to be one of the biggest shows of the season. Slating its must-watch catwalk for 2:30pm on Friday, January 24, it’s sure to have us reaching for our best Dior bits.

Willy Chavarria’s Descent Upon Paris

Abandoning the throes of New York City, all-American eponymous label Willy Chavarria – which won the CFDA award in 2023 – is taking to Paris for AW25, marking its first show outside of the Big Apple. The runway will take place Friday, January 24 at 6pm; expect super-wide trousers, sharp suiting and queer coding.

All The Usual Suspects

That momentum will continue with a slew of Paris’s best and brightest brands. Of note, expect bangin’ shows between Tuesday, January 21 and Sunday, January 26 from Rick Owens, Junya Watanabe, Comme des Garçons, Kiko Kostadinov, Hermès and Wooyoungmi. Also on the roster is Jacquemus, which will be showing on schedule for the very first time at 2pm on Sunday, January 26, after a number of destination shows that had the fash pack venturing to places unknown. How far we’ll have to migrate out for PFW’s closing show this year is something we’ll have to patiently, and excitedly, await.

Photography by Christina Fragkou. Top image: Dior: Menswear SS25.

@10menmagazine