Maria Grazia Chiuri changed things up at Dior couture, showing a delightfully playful collection that revived the mini-crini and frothed with femininity. “I wanted it to be full of joyfulness, dreams and playfulness,” said the designer.

Models in caged crinoline skirts trailing ribbon streamers, sheer mini dresses decorated with delicate lace garlands, rose rosette skirts and girlish bloomers, walked a runway lined with incredible tapestry versions of nine paintings by the Indian artist Rithika Merchant. In what has become a custom for Dior couture shows they were all stitched by hand at the Chanakya International workshop in India, a hub of specialist craftspeople who work closely with Dior.

The looks were light and many were lovely, but serious thought had gone into them. The designer sought to reawaken sartorial memory, studying the fashion creativity of previous centuries, looking back to go forward, to create something fresh. Echoes of Victorian bodices, Edwardian leg-o-mutton sleeves and 18th century panniered court gowns could all be detected. One dress with a caged pannier skirt embroidered with rafia flowers and buds, emphasised the Midsummer Night’s Dream, fairytale quality of the collection.

The designer also studied the extensive Dior archive fixating on the striking 1952 Cigalle silhouette by Mr Dior with its dramatically jutting hips. This was cleverly adapted as a fitted tail coat and boxy mini skirt. She also paid homage to the 1958 Trapeze-line collection conceived for the house by a young Yves Saint Laurent – its proportions were inspired by children’s clothes.

Maria Grazia Chiuri – at her most romantic and joyful – has set a new mood.

dior.com

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