LOUIS VUITTON: AW25
Here we were in the secret Etoile du Nord station, the location under wraps, like platform 9 ¾, waiting to board the Louis Vuitton express - metaphorically. It was a grand adventure and gave us the very best of Nicolas Ghesquiere up close and most fabulously. This was a collection with purposefulness. The models became ‘people’, going places, rushing glamorously and filling the concourse, and then the upper levels of this historic building.
Louis Vuitton is of course steeped in the art of good travel from the little travel sketch books, to the trunks. This was informed peripherally by the 1980s, aperiod that Ghesquiere owns. The music was Kraftwerk and everything worked. There was a touch of the Grand Tour, too, with tiny nods to other eras, a bias cut devore velvet dress, a gleaming feather trimmed black coat, and everyone carrying something useful: a Ukulele case, a violin case, or a lantern bag, lit inside by an LED bulb. Sneakers and socks were worn with everyday denim skirts and cargo jackets; pixie boots were wrinkled; and holdalls, shoulder bags, tiny bags, and rolled wool picnic blankets were spotted. And the makeup done by the newly appointed creative director of makeup at LV, Pat McGrath was brilliant: 58 lip colours alone are promised, eyeshadows too, all debuting later this year. And then there was Ziggy Stardust catching the train, naturally… plenty of characters. This was fashion in motion, individuality future facing, going places.