Perhaps it was the yellow silk moiré set within the Place d’Iena but Miu Miu AW25 oozed regal. This collection was for the intellectual princesses of Paris, here she was with her friend possibly Princess Margaret, ever-so stylish, finished with fake fur, glittering jewels, bracelets, necklaces and crystal trimmed socks too, and glamorous stoles and tiny capes. She was a little awry, dresses collapsed, fallen shoulder straps, but she knows what she wants, she can pull it off. Over the past few seasons Miu Miu has captured the hearts and minds of a fashion audience starved of escapism.

Everyone has been so bogged down with being practical but here she was again, down to earth facing the challenges, but with the kind of confidence that says I can look extremely good even when everything is chaotic out there. The kids screaming for K-Pop stars outside, ten deep, were wearing the schoolgirl Miu Miu look that was such a mega hit from a few seasons ago, long socks chunky shoes a pleated skirt – but too bad it’s time to grow up. This collection offered something more sensual, the wrinkled silk socks might have been stockings, the satin dresses were décolleté and simple bras were glimpsed beneath. A hint of the 1950s. Miuccia Prada explained “There is a sense of tension and anxiety today, and of fear. This season, we really wanted to create an elegance with nothing - through the everyday, through direct manipulations of simple pieces. These are combined with bold gestures of the feminine - jewels, furs - that elevate, that give importance and value and complexity to every look.”

And as simple as that they did just that. The casting was once again nicely spot-on with a diverse lineup including Lou Doillon, Sarah Paulson, Amelia Gray, Gigi Hadid, Rila Fukushima and Sunday Rose Kidman Urban. It reminded us of Sunday Bloody Sunday and Glenda Jackson and so many film moments, the hair controlled bouffant, oh and the glasses. Mrs Prada would have made a great film director. Trust us this was good.

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