Fresh from winning the Queen Elizabeth II Award For British Design, S.S. Daley landed at London Fashion Week with a bang. Presenting his first standalone womenswear collection yesterday, it became clear (if it wasn’t already) that he’s one of the best in the game.

The collection was, quite frankly, incredible. Daley was inspired by the work of queer British artist Gluck, who was known in the ‘20s and ‘30s not only for their portraits and floral tableaus, but for wearing tailored and utilitarian clothes often painted with lovers and femme friends. Daley resonated with this, as his own design language is grounded in menswear yet explores the expansive possibilities and techniques of women’s, through a charming, queer-oriented lens. “Gluck used clothing to curate their identity, then observed the fashion of a lifetime of lovers,” Daley expressed in the show notes. “This collection is about the universe around Gluck, allowing us to go deep into the techniques of womenswear. As with our men’s collections, every piece matters, designed to create a full wardrobe.”      

The resulting silhouettes married tailoring and functionality with lovely drapes, ruching, beading, bias cuts and weightless volumes. Skirts were slit at the front. Tops were ruched at the centre. Feathers were a key feature, inspired by one of Gluck’s final paintings. Blurred florals appeared too, woven into ripstop trenches. Gluck’s own uniform, crisp and tailored, was reimagined as a black wool day coat underscored by a high collar shirt and Daley’s signature wide leg trousers. Every piece of every look was just as important as the next; just as precise and considered. And with minority stakeholder and international superstar Harry Styles sitting front row alongside Anna Wintour, S.S. Daley’s take on womenswear was a surefire winner.

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