As operatic sweeps of instrumental sound poured through the vaulted alcoves of the Pinacoteca di Brera, onlookers couldn’t help but admire the fiercely feminine clothes that appeared before them. Fluid yet sculptural amidst the neo-classical setting, it was the SS25 Sportmax collection, and it was a pared-back display dedicated to the masterful artistry of the brand itself.

The architectural language of the label took shape as rectangular gowns, sometimes with plunging V-necklines or deep slits, and in sharp-shouldered jackets. The free-form structure of leather or silk satin dresses moulded to model’s figures as if mimicking the centennial sculptures that loomed over the stark white catwalk. Everything was monochrome, emerging in subtle, mineral hues of aquamarine, sand, citrine, ruby, black and white.

Elsewhere, military shirting was tucked into skinny, cigarette trousers while geometric bandeaus were underscored by billowing, wide-legged pants. Teardrop crystal tops juxtaposed swaths of transparent chiffon, asymmetric and airy, while the glistening fridge of spaghetti-strap slips and off-kilter tunics danced with every step. Silhouettes were slender and lengthy, with sleeves extending well beyond fingertips.

Sportmax’s accessories game was a strong point: dramatic gold bangles snaked around wrists, cyber-future sunnies sat atop noses and razor sharp stilettos or chunky flip flops jutted out from elongated hems. But the crème de la crème was a delicious bit of Sportmax arm candy. In a renewed array of colours, the pillow-like Soffy bag with twisting ‘S’ hardware, made its runway debut clutched in models hands or tucked under arms. Modern and versatile, it was an elegant evolution of the Sportmax brand as it unapologetically came into its own.

sportmax.com