Stephen Jones: Chapeaux d’artiste
If an exhibition entirely devoted to hats doesn’t sound exciting, you clearly don’t know Stephen Jones and his work. The Palais Galliera pays homage to both the life and the work of Mr. Jones, in an exemplary manner, taking us from his childhood in Liverpool, Central St Martins in London and his first salon in1980, to Paris and the world of couture. We get to see beautiful work across the decades, and we get to know the artist and the man. From the tiniest confection to the architectural swoop of a picture hat, the exhibition offers both the delicate and the bold. It offers Mr Jones talking and in conversation, demonstrating passion and professionalism and how his pragmatic approach to his work is balanced by the creative research with the seemingly effortless outcome.
The exhibition begins with the early days and follows as Jones’ own creations moved from the basement at PX in London to his fashion partners, especially those in Paris: a fringed Jean Paul Gaultier fez; a drift of old rose organza for Claude Montana; Thierry Mugler; Dior, Comme des Garçons; Givenchy…. The range is staggering and his confidence in matching fellow creatives vision while adding to their seasonal statement is proof of his unique eye. It’s Stephen Jones with each designer not a separate creative statement, or a desire to draw attention to his work.
In spite of his Britishness this exhibition belongs in Paris. His work with Dior and the other great Parisian houses is wonderful. His admiration for heritage in millinery demonstrates his respect for so many other great chapeau including Shirley Hex who taught him and Madame Paulette. The exhibition lighting is perfect and firmly focussed on the objects of which there are over 400 including 170 hats, plus show invitations and paper patterns. The soundtrack music cleverly provides scene setting for the decades of Jones’ work. The team at the museum Miren Arzalluz, Marie-Laure Gutton and Alice Freudiger have created an immersive magical, millinery experience. Go see.
Chapeau d’artiste is open at Palais Galliera until March 16, 2025. See inside the exhibition below.
