CELINE: AW24
Back in 1971 Celine Vipiana had a spot of car trouble on Place de L’Etoile which turned into a happy accident. Vipiana happened to look up and notice a chain link circling the Arc de Triomphe and so the decorative pattern that became Celine’s monogram was born. After Hedi Slimane took over the creative reins at the luxury brand, that monogram underwent a modern revamp including being renamed as the Triomphe. It was on the first bag he designed and since then it’s appeared in countless collections, including Celine’s fall winter 2024 show.
Fittingly titled La Collection de L’Arc de Triomphe, it’s equal parts an ode to the woman behind the monogram as it is to Slimane’s friend and mentor, photographer Richard Avedon. The 12 minute film was shot back in December 2023 and takes place across three Art Deco Parisian locations. The first, La Salle Pleyel, is a concert hall while shots also include the interior of La Musée Bourdelle’s Salle des Plâtres, which is filled with the artist’s plaster casts. And finally, the third is La Maison de la Chimie, where Slimane held his first show for Yves Saint Laurent back in 1997.
Against these backdrops Slimane offered an updated take on sixties era dressing, considered a golden time for the luxury house. Per the press release, he wanted to recapture the time period’s origins and spirit with two piece coordinating sets mixed in with the hand embroidered couture pieces. The result is a youthful, chic parade of looks that feel especially modern. The opening model set the tone with her all-black mini dress accented with a pearl necklace and big black shades — she’s ladylike but retains an edge. The subsequent options styles reinforced that vision with short hemlines offset by fluffy furs, chunky Mary Janes, and big shades as well as oversized hats. Designed to be a sixties riff on the classic baseball cap, they offer a quirky cool finishing touch. To end, little dresses with all of the trimmings you’d expect, including the finale which featured a feather bodice that made for a strong visual exclamation point.
In the past Slimane has worked with an array of musical collaborators, including LCD Soundsystem’s James Murphy. For this show he had Mélane Chedeville rearrange and perform La Folia. The tinkly notes recalled the sounds you’d hear when you opened a music box, which was the precise image on the screen with the dancer replaced by the figure of a woman clad in Celine, complete with shades. Being Slimane however, a beat kicks in followed by an almost sinister, frenetic melody to close it out. If Henry Mancini were composing for a modern day Holly Golightly, this is what it would sound like.
While the film served to showcase next season’s collection, Slimane also hard launched the brand’s new beauty line. Celine Beauté expands on the existing perfume and body care products with the addition of color cosmetics. Come fall you’ll be able to buy the first product, a satin lipstick in the shade Rouge Triomphe, a red that was teased in the video. For those who prefer the more sedate shade seen on the models, La Peau Nue Rose Naturel will be among the 15 shades hitting stores in 2025.