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DIOR: COUTURE AW24

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Into the Rodin Museum with its sculptures tangled up in marbled kisses we went. Dior Couture is always a sweet spot, and with the Paris Olympics only a heartbeat away, it's safe to say that Maria Grazia Chiuri was influenced by the games. The enduring respect and friendship with the late activist Faith Ringgold also played a pivotal part. The set, hung with glass mosaics representations of Ringgold’s art, original commissions for the Civic Center LA Subway, set the tone for the ongoing dialogue that is at the heart of Grazia’s work: female empowerment. The collection was a tidal flow of Greek goddess gowns: Athena, the goddess of wisdom, and Nike, the winged goddess of victory. And it was a winner, with a sharp focus on sport and grace thrumming through the 61 looks. The go-faster athleticism was evident in bare-shouldered gowns and racing back “t-shirts” on bodices, blending seamlessly with the soft draping that balanced the sense of sport. The heft of references to Ancient Greece was underscored by the leather gladiators.

As we mused post a conversation with Tim Blanks, the question lingered: how relevant is fashion right now? Corseted bodices and micro shorts slithered past, embodying total fantasy. Perhaps that is the point.  The essence of this collection lay in its perfect blend of ancient and modern, fantasy and reality. The harnessed a clear sighted and highly detailed vision, from the backless dress in gold lame chiffon—micro dipped by hand—to the sassy metallic gold tulle embroidered bodysuit with its gradient cascade of lacquered and golden rooster feathers. It was a marathon run, the real deal fashion Olympics complete with deconstructed flags.Black crushed velvet and weighty satin contrasted with shimmering tailoring. Languid dresses floated by, heavenly in their simplicity.

The collection was a testament to the resilience and grace of women, much like the goddesses who inspired it. As the show notes told us, ‘this was a tribute to all athletes who have overcome prejudice to create a level playing field'. Chiuri had crafted a narrative of strength and beauty, one that honoured the past while looking towards future wins. It was a vision of a world where art, sport, and fashion intertwined to create something beautiful.

dior.com