Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci reset is gathering pace. He is steering the house in a cleaner, younger, sharper direction, building on the foundations of his clean cut debut. The designer moved up a gear, lavishing his collection with craft and pushing the skills of the Gucci ateliers  to create clothes that went far beyond basic. Coats came with stunning dégradé embroidery from hip to hem. Pea coats were encrusted with paillettes, bombers emblazoned with dense clusters of crystals and sequins and strappy slips shimmered with sequins of ascending sizes.

The designer spoke of pushing himself out of his comfort zone and challenging his own taste in making the collection. He spoke of his dislike of embroidery but used it heavily throughout. He used “wrong” colours – a “poison” green and“mould” blue as well as plenty of his signature (and hugely appealing) Ancora red.

The collection was lavished with craft and hand work. Supple lace shift dresses were constructed from overlapping layers, held together by laces. Not all the craft was visible. Masculine coats had hidden buttons on the back “which transforms it into an embrace” said the show notes. The aim of it all was to enhance the feel of the clothes on the body.

“It’s not about fantasy fashion.” The designer spoke of his desire to make real life better. “My dreams, as with my fashion, always converse with reality. Because I am not searching for another world to live in, but rather of ways to live in this world.”

There was altogether more emotion in this collection and more fashion zing. It was a terrific collection for coats with embossed leather GG pea coats and  a snake car coat in Ancora red amongst the standouts. Add one of the new half moon bags and a pair of towering platform slingback loafers or thigh-high riding boots and you’re good to go.

gucci.com