Alva Claire opened Knwls’ AW24 show in a simple white cotton bodycon midi-dress, layered to reveal a double neckline and falling off one shoulder, setting the tone for the grown up collection to come. It felt like a coming of age, a maturation of the It-girl aesthetic the brand has been lauded for. As designers Charlotte Knowles and partner Alexandre Arsenault doubled down on the signature severe elegance of their clothes, it was, quite literally, Sensational (this was the name of the collection).

Evoking an air of ‘80s power dressing, there were beefy shouldered wrap coats and form fitting zip-ups with furry uppers and arms. Low slung skirts and flared trousers with double waistbands underscored waist-skimming funnel neck jackets in varying shades of grey denim. Low-waisted leather shorts hung down just below the knee and Bermuda pants both featured a vintage patina effect in places. Paired with these, Knwls’ signature zip-fastened corsets came in full-grain sea green leather or sandy pinstripe denim with lacing at the shoulders – oozing confidence.

The knitwear was particularly good. Especially the flared-sleeve v-necks which came in the form of a jumper as well as a dress. Many of the looks were styled with chunky crochet-chain earrings, necklaces and bracelets created in collaboration with New York-based jeweller Arielle de Pinto.

The mood was “aloof chic”, and models’ played their part, walking through the Truman Brewery with a “hazy insouciance” to their step. Hanging from their hands, the Razr bag was updated in supple shades of ivory, pastel yellow, jet black and patent merlot, as well as in a crushed snakeskin graphic. That off-kilter snakeskin print permeated a flimsy jersey dress too. We loved it.

knwls.com