For her first act as creative director of leather goods and accessories at Bulgari, Mary Katrantzou has released an intricate collection of handbags inspired by the mosaics of the Terme di Caracalla (the Baths of Caracalla). A fragment of the ancient Roman Empire built in the third century AD and named for the Emperor under whom they were constructed, in their heyday the baths were regarded as one of the seven wonders of Rome. There, amidst the mosaic floors – in fan-shaped polychrome marble tesserae – people would gather to gab about whatever it is they did in antiquity. Flash forward a few thousand and Bulgari’s patronage granted funding to renovate these magnificent works of art, which were unveiled in 2015 and 2016.

Now, bedecking a triptych of textural bags with a geometric leitmotif inspired by the baths’ mosaics, the Calla collection marks Katrantzou’s monumental debut. “The motif, a sensuously curving fan, has a compelling femininity and universality, connecting with other cultures, other meanings,” Katrantzou says. “It links with the gingko leaf and with the calla lily.” Reinterpreting the house’s ‘Serpenti Forever’ silhouettes, the precision-engineered matelassé quilting technique of Calla is crafted by specialist Bulgari artisans in the maison’s historic Florentine leather goods atelier.

First in the collection is the new Serpenti Sugarloaf, a padded, nappa leather shoulder bag inspired by a rare high-domed variant of Bulgari’s signature cabochon cut. Also included is the Serpentine Duo handbag, a trapèze-cut shaped tote with forged metal handles that feature a double Serpenti head on each side. Available in leather for the day-to-day or covered in hand-placed pavé crystals, it marries the intricacies of jewellery-making and leather craftsmanship beautifully. So does the new Ginkgo’ clutch which interprets the Calla pattern as a singular, fanned emblem. Suspended from a nappa leather bracelet and sculpted using both moulded metal and leather, it’s truly a collection standout.

Each bag, evocative of precious Bulgari jewels, is an impressive example of the house’s unparalleled savoir faire, steeped in the heritage of the city that birthed it. At Bvlgari, all roads lead to Rome.

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