Ahead of the official New York Fashion Week kick off, Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez got a headstart with a small, off schedule presentation. Showing at a loft venue in Tribeca, what came sauntering across the catwalk was a refreshing, stripped-back lineup inspired by sails, that set the tone for the SS25 season.

Starting out strong with a series of semi-structured square shaped tops that draped over and across the body with a scarf-like quality, subtle flashes of skin were revealed. These were followed by body-engulfing shirt dresses and airy asymmetric dresses cut from a fabric printed with tiny black and white flowers that fit right in with the brand’s Big Apple-oriented design language. Riffing off of the nautical theme, weighty floor-length knit dresses and skirted twinsets arrived in bold marinière stripes while button-front sailor pants cropped up beneath boxy, sleeveless shirting and fitted captain jackets.

For formalwear, Grecian-style pleated gowns constructed from frothy organza and chiffon in a muted palette of ivory, navy, black, red and lilac felt like the kind of thing a wealthy woman might wear when shoving off in her yacht. But there were also these punkish, leather dresses that featured irregularly slashed hemlines and an abundance of fringe for a more rugged, more modern edge.

Grounding a number of the looks, rubber, ankle-grazing shoes and beefy calf-high boots were created in collaboration with Sorel, while PS logo trainers offered a more relaxed, day-to-day feel. Weather depending, either option would be great for an afternoon stroll through Central Park or perhaps even setting sail.

From start to finish, this was clothing that felt satisfyingly showy, yet maintained a certain simplicity. Easy, wearable, chic.

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