SAINT LAURENT: MENSWEAR AW24
Just when the fash pack thought the Paris shows where about to end, Anthony Vaccarello unveiled he would be officially closing the week with a surprise Saint Laurent menswear show. Staged inside the Pinault Collection – the French stock exchange turned art museum – its towering concrete walls and black carpeted floors made a fitting location for Vaccarello’s ode to power dressing.
His models sauntered through the space in 1980s double-breasted business suits, cut wide at the shoulder, that made dressing for the boardroom something of an event. With slicked back hair and wearing tortoise shell frames, they carried an air of Yves Saint Laurent himself.
There’s a fluidity to the Vaccarello’s menswear. The slick outing mirrored many of the components that made up his womenswear collection that was unveiled Tuesday of last week. Think slouched suiting draped in liquid-like finishes, or wipe-clean rubber pea coats that cocooned the models’ frames (a nod to styles first envisioned by Saint Laurent in 1963). Sharing a delightful palette of khaki, beige, powdery purples and chocolate browns, both of Vaccarello’s collections shaped up to be two of this week’s highlights. Bravo indeed.