The ghosts of Betty Catroux and Lou Lou de la Falaise stalked Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent SS25 catwalk. The designer is known for his emphatic messaging and commitment to a look. Last season it was sheer hosiery dressing, this time it was trouser suits – double-breasted, boxy, oversized, masculine and worn Catroux-style with a shirt and tie. The legendary muse watched from the front row approvingly. Interspersed into the androgynous line-up were flounced, flowing, floor-length skirts and dresses glinting with gold-threaded opulence.

Lou Lou, whose feminine, boho sensibility helped define Saint Laurent’s haute hippie looks of the 1970s, would have loved them as well as the oversized beads and bangles accessorising the look. A silk paisley dressing gown belted as a coat added to the sense of louche, masc/femme softness. Just when you thought it couldn’t get better, the collection moved up a gear, with lavish brocade jackets glimmering in precious jewel tones patterns. These were worn with little cocktail skirts of pleated silk and precious lace. Squint and you could see the most elegant socialites of the ‘70s and ‘80s – Nan Kempner, Fran Stark and Jaqueline de Ribes – wearing them to a fancy function. The symphony of extravagant materials, haughty models and decadent looks built to a crescendo of chic. Very rich. Very Saint Laurent.

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