These Nail Artists Have The Wow Factor

They do more than manicures. Sculpting snaking tendrils of chrome and swiping on simple, monochrome colours, these are miniature works of art. Meet the nail artists taking a refreshed approach to painting digits. They create unique designs, combining self-taught methods with traditional techniques as a means to challenge conventional notions of beauty. Think decrepit, Gollum-esque claws that could gouge someone’s eyes out or coquettish creations chock-full of press-on pearls and baby pink bows. It’s about subversion and forging fantasy one painted fingernail at a time.

Sojin Oh

Björk’s resident nail artist, Oh, has a finger on the pulse of what makes an ethereal manicure. Sculpting three- dimensional flowers and water droplets, extensions that seem to bubble like lava lamps and more experimental compositions like sea-shell press-ons, she makes the kind of stuff fever dreams are made of – but for your fingers.

Where is the most unlikely or unusual place you find inspiration?

I enjoy watching surfers in the ocean. It inspired me to have a deeper connection to nature and community. It reminds me that shared experiences and adventures are valuable and needed in life. To me, they are artists who show creativity and self-expression by collaborating with the choreography of the water.

What has been your favourite project you’ve worked on?

I am currently engaged in a performance piece for the Asian Art Museum in San Francisco, in conjunction with the V&A exhibition Hallyu! The Korean Wave. This project involves a live demonstration of 3D nail art, an endeavour that highlights my contributions to the evolution of nail art within Korean pop culture. I think this is my favourite project at the moment.

When did you first fall in love with nails?

My nail journey began with a personal need to execute my design concepts, as I found it challenging to find others who could replicate them. Initially, I was not particularly interested in nails; however, as I began creating for others, I realised that nail art I like emerges from intimacy and human connection, and that’s when I started to love the beauty of it all.

When it comes to your own nails, what style do you usually turn to?

Practical, sensual and original. It has to be something that’s never been done before.

If you could do the nails of anyone in the world, who would you choose?

Dennis Rodman. I just admire that queen.

Travis Loo

With a knack for three-dimensional designs that surf and swell as if they’re made from the liquid elixir of another planet, Loo transforms nails into miniature sculptures. His work defies convention, merging vibrant hues with fluid shapes that seem to pulse with life and capture a surreal quality that feels both organic and extraterrestrial.

Where is the most unlikely or unusual place you find inspiration?

From anything transport-related. When I am in transit, commuting, or in a place where people are en route, I find myself thinking about other people’s sense of style – whether they are on the train on the way to work or at the airport awaiting a destination unknown to me. These places feel quite still to me as people await the next part of their day or adventure, and they feel like the perfect places to people-watch. It makes me wonder what their stories are, how they choose to present themselves and, ultimately, what nails would complement the energy they are putting out into the world.

What has been the favourite project that you’ve worked on?

It was a shoot for Kiko Kostadinov SS22. I worked on sets of shell-inspired nails for the collection and spent many nights prototyping their shape, texture and colours. The shoot turned out beautifully and I was honoured to be a part of it.

When did you first fall in love with nails?

When I watched X-Men 2 [2003] for the first time. I was so intrigued by Lady Deathstrike and just thought she was the scariest but most alluring villain I had ever seen. Every time my nails are done now, I feel like I’m embodying her!

When it comes to your own nails, what style do you usually turn to?

For my own nails, I usually go for something quite textured or maximalist. If I’m doing them myself, something textured and rough around the edges works well because I actually have quite shaky hands, so I find it difficult to do any fine lines or precise nail art on my hands. I also feel like it matches my personal style as I like to accessorise and play around with different silhouettes, so it only makes sense for my nails to follow suit!

If you could do the nails of anyone in the world, who would you choose?

It would be for my grandma. She lived in Singapore and sadly passed away after a long battle with cancer a few years ago. She lived a really tough life. I only started doing nails during lockdown and unfortunately I wasn’t able to see her for a couple of years before she passed. I would have loved to have spent a couple hours doing a crazy fun set on her.

Tyler Phoenix

Picture intricate paintings on a miniature scale, depicting faces by the artist Nara Yoshimoto, Studio Ghibli animations and high fashion brand monograms, with the occasional 3D pop-out. This is the kind of stuff Phoenix brings to life on the nail beds of runway models and celebs like Iris Law.

Where is the most unlikely or unusual place you find inspiration?

I wouldn’t say there are any because I will find inspiration from anything and everything. It could vary from a print I see in a book to a texture I’ve spotted outside. What might be unusual is that sometimes in my sleep I have a vision of a nail design with a title and I have to wake up and draw the nail out and title/date it. One of my favourite nail designs that has come to mind while sleeping is called ‘the dancing diamond’. It’s funny because when people say to me, “I bet you could do this when you sleep”, they are so correct!

What has been the favourite project you’ve worked on?

The Di Petsa AW24 show, where I got to make finger guards for the first time. That was so fun and challenging to do, but it’s also very satisfying pulling it off and knowing the team loves the idea.

When did you first fall in love with nails?

I was maybe seven or eight. My family has always been in the beauty industry so when my two older sisters started learning how to do nails from my aunties’ teaching academy, that’s where my love for nails began. They use to come home with the nail design boards and create airbrush designs to display. When they would leave the boards unattended, I would pick the nail sample off and show all my friends at school the next day. If it wasn’t for them and my love for all things art and design, I would have walked a completely different journey.

When it comes to your own nails, what style do you usually turn to?

Honestly, it’s changed so much throughout the years. But lately I love a very micro French, just a millimetre thickness and super short clean nails. Being a mum my time is so limited, so a clean nail works for me and is less upkeep.

If you could do the nails of anyone in the world, who would you choose?

Such a tough question but I would say [fashion buyer] Lori Hirshleifer. I absolutely love her style from head to toe to the nails. And she’s obsessed with her dogs, so that won me over the most!

Lisa Mård

Like flora frozen in a thin layer of ice, Mård’s nail art could hardly be described as anything other than sculptural. These delicate adornments, often made from glue, seem to twist and grow straight out of the nail bed and into amorphous structures from another universe.

Where is the most unlikely or unusual place you find inspiration?

I’m often inspired by the unexpected, the grotesque and the unsettling. One of the most revisited images that has influenced my work is a photo of a hand, its fingers melted by something radioactive, yet the nails have been re- shaped into something almost floral. I’m always searching for that balance between what’s disturbing and what’s seductive.

What has been the favourite project that you’ve worked on?

I love an organic but sexy concept, again, which is very me, and I believe all of my projects have had that. I’ve been collaborating with such brilliant creatives. Each project feels like a favourite in its own way.

When did you first fall in love with nails?

My love for nail art grew during the pandemic, four years ago now. I was looking for a new creative outlet and nails rather unexpectedly became my canvas. For me, they’re like miniature sculptures – small but powerful, with the ability to elevate any project they’re part of.

When it comes to your own nails, what style do you usually turn to?

I’ve had the same transparent pointy tips for years. It’s my signature. Sometimes I’ll do one or two tips in French, but always with a clear base.

If you could do the nails of anyone in the world, who would you choose?

Mary Kate and Ashley. My whole visual identity is thanks to them.

Betina Goldstein

Hollywood’s go-to manicurist, and the resident nail artist at Chanel, Goldstein has a certain knack for painstaking details. Bedecking the hands of clientele like Zoë Kravitz and Margot Robbie, her style is clean and chic, but with an added edge – thanks to teensy 3D ladybirds, hyperrealistic eyes, oysters and eight balls.

Where is the most unlikely or unusual place you find inspiration?

Life experiences, moments and emotions.

What has been the favourite project you’ve worked on?

That’s a hard one. I love the Met Gala because it’s when I can get really creative with my clients and push boundaries with my designs.

When did you first fall in love with nails?

The moment I realised that endless creativity was in my hands.

When it comes to your own nails, what style do you usually turn to?

Simplistic with an edge.

If you could do the nails of anyone in the world, who would you choose?

Elsa Schiaparelli would have been my dream client for her bold, surrealistic designs and unconventional approach to fashion. The opportunity to collaborate with such an innovative mind would be incredible. Her fearless creativity and eccentric style would not only make her a fascinating person to sit down and have a conversation with during the process, but the ideal client for me to push boundaries of design with.

Juan Alvear

He’s your favourite nail artist’s favourite nail artist. Painting otherworldly manis and erecting tiny three-dimensional sculptures with surgical precision, Alvear has taken the beauty world by the balls. With clients like Charli xcx, Lil Nas X and Chappell Roan on his roster, he creates awe-inspiringly intricate artworks, turning the nail into a tiny canvas.

Where is the most unlikely or unusual place you find inspiration?

Inspiration tends to find me in the most unexpected places. I often look to the uncanny, drawing from jewellery and the everyday textures around me. I love the challenge of blending these elements into something fresh and unseen, creating a sense of wonder through the ordinary.

What has been your favourite project to work on?

One of my standout experiences was the Thom Browne runway show last year. I gave the models long, curled nails on their hands and feet, which added a surreal element to the show. It was a real joy to contribute something so bold to such a high- concept event.

When did you first fall in love with nails?

Funnily enough, my love for nails began with a bit of reluctance. I didn’t think much about hands – or feet, for that matter – and I initially approached nails as more of a playful experiment. But the more I worked on them, the more they fascinated me and turned into an obsession, as I explored the overlooked beauty in these finishing details. I’ve since embraced the underdog nature of nail art and love elevating it.

When it comes to your own nails, what style do you usually turn to?

I’m drawn to shorter nails for practicality, since I use my hands constantly. That said, I love adding a bit of drama with silver chrome accents, jewels and studs. It’s all about balancing flair with functionality.

If you could do anyone’s nails in the world, who would you choose?

There are so many incredible people I’d love to collaborate with! My top three designers would be Kiko Kostadinov, Rick Owens and Schiaparelli, as I find their visual worlds so striking. I can imagine my nail art fitting perfectly into each of their creative realities. As for individual icons, I’d love to do nails for Britney Spears, Dolly Parton or Sha’Carri Richardson – no explanation needed, right? They are absolute legends.

Alona Sobolevska

Not for the faint of heart, Ukrainian creative Sobolevska takes adorning digits to a whole new level. Think grotesque, foot-long fingernails, visceral press-on snails or carnivorous claws. Provocative and addictively strange, she’s serving man- repelling manis at their finest.

Where is the most unlikely or unusual place you find inspiration?

I quite often go to ‘two Euros’ stores to look at the trinkets they sell that I could potentially use in my work; doll heads, slimes, paper clips, sand, stickers, paints for example.

What has been the favourite project you’ve worked on?

Most likely, these were snails’ nails. This was one of my first complex projects, where I used my sculpting skills, and I just love sculpting! In addition, it was also one of the first works I did that went viral, which is good news.

When did you first fall in love with nails?

I remember when the obsession came to me… It happened around fourth grade. I accidentally came across a hardware store that sold plastic false nails and throughout the school year I periodically collected money to buy them. I glued them upside down so that they fit the size of my little hands and used my dad’s superglue to do it, so that my nails wouldn’t fall off when I climbed trees. It was a real obsession.

When it comes to your own nails, what style do you usually turn to?

I never wear my nails long on a daily basis. Long nails make working very difficult and the coating instantly becomes ugly from constant interaction with my materials. My hands look more like someone from the construction industry rather than someone from the fashion and beauty industries.

If you could do the nails of anyone in the world, who would you choose?

I would love to do nails for Marcia Cross [from Desperate Housewives] because she is my crush, and also for Billie Eilish for the same reason.

Tomoya Nakagawa

From feminine bows juxtaposed with the snaking tendrils of cyberpunk chromes, fisherman-turned-nail pundit Nakagawa’s art leaves no medium unexplored. Tapping into a futuristic vision of beauty, the molecular structures he erects are enough to mesmerise and disrupt, blurring the lines between organic elegance and technological grit while evoking a world that’s both delicate and dystopian.

Where is the most unlikely or unusual place you get inspiration from?

I get inspiration from places I’ve never been to before. Recently, Paris.

What is your favourite project that you’ve worked on?

Hmm. That’s hard! I don’t really look back on the past. When did you fall in love with nails? In middle school. But I didn’t start doing nails until I was over 35.

When it comes to your nails, do you have a style in mind?

Make them carefully.

If you could do the nails of anyone in the world, who would you choose?

Dennis Rodman. An eternal icon.

Viviane Lee Hsu

Viviane Lee, aka São Paulo-based Cyshimi, explores ancestry and identity in her work. Often playing with earth textures, interpretive dinosaur claws and warped three-dimensional abstract sculptures that feel like something from Alien, she also serves up press-on kawaii-style crucifixes and baby pink bows. That’s having range.

Where is the most unlikely or unusual place you find inspiration?

It’s definitely not an unusual place, but at the beginning of this year I came back to Tumblr and I spend a lot of my online time there, which has been inspiring me as a person and affects my work somehow. I really love the subtleness and realness that Tumblr has.

What has been the favourite project you’ve worked on?

The campaign for Zero fragrance by Comme des Garçons with director and stylist Ode Hilaire, which was shot in Brazil, will always be remarkable for me. I also did a shoot with photographer Hop Nguyen this summer where we turned nails into a mouthpiece, and sealed eyes and lips with nails. I really love the raw beauty of that shoot.

When did you first fall in love with nails?

I’ve been growing my natural nails long since high school. There was nothing being decorated at that time and nail extensions weren’t even a thing until about eight years later in Brazil. I just liked how they looked and how I felt special with super long natural nails. Before I started experimenting with nail products, I studied the history of nails and got to see how much of a resistance and power symbol nails are throughout cultures and people, which inspired me. While I had those nails, and naively found it interesting, I also saw how people were so opinionated and judge-y about it, thinking it was either ugly or gross. That was fuel for me and I wanted to do it even more. I wanted to defy these hegemonic and hygienic concepts of beauty, pushing forward the boundaries of what nail art is while trying to materialise this idea of an expandable and artificial body with sculptural nails.

When it comes to your own nails, what style do you usually turn to?

Lately, after doing nails for this season’s Iseder show at NYFW, I got obsessed with their big New York souvenir rings. I feel like they match short square nails, so that’s what I’ve been using the most. My natural nails are pretty resistant and can grow easily, so I’ve been using gel polish on top but with nothing 3D on top. I’m a very press-on-focused nail artist and I have a whole collection with me that I use every time I go out. I can easily stick press-ons on top of my already decorated natural nails to match with my outfits.

If you could do the nails of anyone in the world, who would you choose?

I don’t know if I have someone specific in mind but I love doing extreme nails for people’s important moments in their lives, like weddings, proms and birthdays. I remember how when I had long natural nails, they broke every time I was going through big events in my life.

Sylvie Macmillan

There are two faces to Macmillan’s nail art. On one hand, it’s all about that va va voom: sleek, chic nails that would look at home on the hand of a femme fatale. On the other, the technician plays with conceptual experimentation, sculpting stacks of ice cubes, smashed statue heads, corkscrew-like claws and even a dress made entirely from acrylics.

Where is the most unlikely or unusual place you find inspiration?

I’m not sure that there is an unusual place to find inspiration if I really think about it. There’s always something to pluck from whatever environment we’re in. I once did some nails based on the shape of a coot’s beak I saw in the Serpentine pond [in Hyde Park] and during lockdown – when everyone became an amateur baker, I baked some nails.

What has been the favourite project you’ve worked on?

Probably the nail story I did with Anton Gottlob for Altered States. I had always felt there was a parallel between people who modify standard cars to a crazy degree and those who have regular lifestyles with amazing talons. Both have created an incredible fantasy for themselves out of something potentially mundane. Car paint and nail polish strive for the same finish, so it was so much fun doing a story about the two.

When did you first fall in love with nails?

Not that I don’t love it, but I can’t remember a time specifically that I fell in love with nails. I came into nails from my love of miniatures. I’ve always had an urge to make small beautiful things since I was a kid making mini plates of food from Fimo [modelling clay]. Nails was the perfect job for me because it incorporated making small, beautiful things with being social. I learnt to really appreciate the craft and technicalities of manicures when I did my training.

When it comes to your own nails, what style do you usually turn to?

I’m simple with my own hands. Often they’re totally bare because I have to use my hands for doing tests and examples to send to clients. I work out and sculpt in my own time so my hands take a battering – I’m happy as long as they look clean. People are often surprised but this job just isn’t about making myself pretty.

If you could do the nails of anyone in the world, who would you choose?

Alive – it would have to be Dolly Parton, she’s so smart and has made a brand off the back of talent and kindness. Dead – I’d love to meet Cleopatra, she’s the epitome of ancient glamour. There’s so much speculation as to what kind of woman she was and when you’re doing someone’s nails you get a very good idea of their character.