Now, more than ever, designing sustainably is an imperative part of the fashion world. Brand after brand is getting on board, but it’s usually the self-made labels that have truly perfected the skill of making clothes in an ethical, environmentally conscious way from conception through to execution. Enter Central Saint Martins’ graduate Grace Weller, who specialises in sustainability.

Rather than creating new textiles using eco-friendly methods, Weller works from the fabric down, usually recontextualising antique and vintage textiles using more modern silhouettes and a panoply of contemporary embellishment techniques. But her design work goes beyond upcycling; for her hand-crafted, one-off garments and limited-run, made-to-order mainline pieces, Weller often assembles her own lace and crochets new silhouettes from fabric scraps. Adhering to a circular fashion system, from her sequin skirts and tassel tops, to her detritus dresses (made using hand-crafted leather lace fabrics from factory off-cuts), slinky, twisted gowns and re-finished tailoring, everything is absolutely aware of its impact and excess is a mere memory.

Establishing her eponymous brand in 2022, from Weller’s humble studio, which sits just outside of London, she commandeers excess materials otherwise destined for landfill and meticulously assembles them into the romantic eveningwear pieces that have garnered her an increasingly dedicated fan base. But, behind the joyful clothes is a designer who uses her talent to aid in her own self-actualisation, often crafting pieces that echo what she, herself, wants to wear. Think intricately layered, oversized proportions that exude a romantic sensibility whilst maintaining a certain strength of form, and tangible textures emphasised by a vivacious use of colour. In her relentless pursuit of craftsmanship, the result is a harmonious juxtaposition between the rough and the supple, the bold and the subtle.

Transcending seasons and fast-fading fashion fads, Grace Weller’s designs are made to be kept, treasured and handed down through generations.

ON THE BIRTH OF THE GRACE WELLER BRAND

Creativity has always been an integral part of my home life, with my dad being an artist and my mum a knitwear designer. Growing up surrounded by materials and fabrics, it was impossible not to be influenced by the creative environment at home. So I’ve always aspired to create something of my own, however, the impact of COVID and losing my job accelerated that ambition.

ON WHAT INSPIRES HER

My boyfriend started his own menswear brand with virtually no money and no prior experience in the fashion industry. Watching him face countless challenges, yet persevere and push forward, was incredibly motivating and inspiring. He has created a brand that so clearly reflects his personality that it made me start thinking about the kind of brand I would create to represent myself with the same impact. I’m not sure I would have had the courage to start my own business without that inspiration.

[I create eveningwear pieces because] I’ve always been captivated by the grandeur and beauty of the couture shows, especially the focus on eveningwear. However, I have to admit that I struggle with pattern cutting, and when I started, I didn’t have the budget or resources to hire pattern cutters. I had to work within my abilities, and draping dresses on a mannequin was much more manageable for me. Fortunately, the fabrics I was using naturally lent themselves to eveningwear, so it felt like the right direction to pursue.

[And] I like to design what I feel good wearing – loose and oversized combined with softer, draped feminine pieces, although sometimes I am in the mood for something a bit more sculpted and fitted!

ON HER CREATIVE PROCESS

Initially, my decision to [fuse together vintage fabrics with modern techniques] was driven by access and budget. I am a bit of a hoarder, collecting fabrics and lace from vintage markets, charity shops and so on, so when I started the brand – during a time when we couldn’t leave our homes and all the shops were closed – I began experimenting with the materials I had gathered over the years. I have always loved decoration and embellishment, but after working for an embroidery company, I understood just how labour-intensive and expensive traditional handmade techniques could be. This pushed me to think creatively about new methods or applications that would allow me to craft embellished pieces without requiring the extensive skill and time typically needed for fully embellished designs.

Finding this balance [between the creativity of my one-off and more accessible pieces] has been a constant challenge, something I’m always fine-tuning. Since my brand is heavily textiles-focused, it’s crucial for me to feature interesting textiles and surfaces throughout my collections. I enjoy bringing small, unique details from one-of-a-kind pieces into the mainline. For instance, I might create a fully embroidered dress and then incorporate that same embroidery on the collar of a shirt or the cuff for example. Even subtle touches, like a bit of hand embroidery or a whipstitch along the edge, help maintain that handcrafted element in the more simple pieces.

ON DESIGNING SUSTAINABLY

My commitment to sustainability and a conscious approach to crafting my collections has been developed and formed in more recent years. The pandemic gave me ample time to pause and reflect- as I contemplated the state of the world and the fashion industry’s impact on the environment and its resources, I felt a sense of unease. This feeling, combined with a renewed need to create, ultimately inspired me to launch this brand.

In recent collections, my work has largely been guided by what materials I can source. I spend a lot of time scouring the internet and experimenting with scrap and damaged textiles, deadstock, and end-of-line materials. I’m always drawn to texture and colour, favouring materials that aren’t too delicate, allowing for manipulation through various processes. Moving forward, I’m keen to incorporate more recycled fabrics into my mainline, so I’ve been actively researching and exploring this avenue.

For me, the most important aspect has been setting sustainable goals and practising patience and flexibility while working towards them. Initially, I assumed I could achieve 100 per cent sustainability right from the start, but I quickly realised that with my limited resources, it’s not that simple. However, these limitations have pushed me to be more creative in my approach and processes when it comes to crafting my one-of-a-kind pieces, finding innovative ways to make sustainability a core part of my brand. However I definitely don’t claim to be perfect and I am always working to improve my sustainable practices with my ready-to-wear line- it’s a work in progress for sure.

ON THE FUTURE OF GRACE WELLER

Every stage of my career has been important and pivotal; it’s hard to pinpoint a single defining moment. I’ve learned so much from each experience, and they have collectively guided me to where I am today. However, if I had to choose one particularly influential period, it would be my time working for Jato, an Italian embroidery company based in Bologna. For as long as I can remember, I’ve been fascinated by the Valentino couture shows and the techniques used in their textiles and embroidery. Suddenly, I found myself not only observing these techniques but also working on them firsthand. This experience was a privilege and an invaluable learning opportunity that has significantly shaped my journey and led me to where I am now.

The most exciting and enriching moment was going to India and visiting the embroidery factories and markets out there- such an eye opening, inspiring and wild experience and I can’t wait to go back and explore further. I think it will be an integral part to the brand when it comes to bridging the gap between the ready-to-wear and one-of-a-kind pieces.

[Going forward] I want to push my creative boundaries and really start experimenting with new and innovative textiles and techniques that are original and instantly recognisable as part of the Grace Weller brand.

Photography courtesy of Grace Weller.

graceweller.store