For his debut show as creative director, Peter Hawkings drilled down into the very essence of the Tom Ford universe. The British-born designer was Ford’s right hand menswear man for over 20 years and nobody understands the DNA of Ford more intimately than him. From the plush beige carpeted show space, scented with heady with Tom Ford fragrance, the dressed-up clients and Madonna pre-showsound track, the glamorous mood was set. Hawkings talked of bringing the mens collection – where his sensibility lies – closer to the women’s which was always designed separately in Los Angeles.

He sent out a polished debut that served as a greatest hits reminder of all the things we love about Tom Ford. From the sexy slinky jersey maxi dresses (some slung with that iconic sculptural gold metal hipster belt Ford first showed on the Gucci catwalk in 1996), to the seventies tailoring, croc pencil skirts worn (Ford-style) with blouses open to the waist, fringed party dresses, and micro shorts worn with classic Tom Ford blazers. Hawking even did renditions of the red and blue velvet suits from Ford’s breakthrough AW1995 Gucci collection.

The women’s tailoring matched the men’s for cut, quality, polish and precision Hawkings brought all his considerable know-how to it. Styling did the rest. Big hair, big square sunglasses, sky high heels and elongated clutch bags finished the glossy, amped-up look. This is a label that bleeds glamour. To an older generation who had the privilege of seeing Fords work on the runway, it was like looking at old friends who’ve not aged a bit. To a younger generation who weren’t born when Tom Ford’s libidinous designs, at Gucci and YSL, defined nineties and naughties  fashion, it provided a tempting taster menu for the brand’s high gloss aesthetic. Big time sexuality for twenty first century high rollers.

tomford.co.uk